Each Chef Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.